V&A
Sage Green Wool Deconstructed Sleeveless Jacket
2000s · 2010s · Austrian
Designer
Carol Christian Poell
Production
artisan-craft
Material
wool
Culture
Austrian
Movement
Deconstructivism · Indie Sleaze
Influences
Japanese avant-garde tailoring · deconstructed menswear
A sage green wool suit jacket displaying Carol Christian Poell's signature deconstructed aesthetic. The garment features an oversized silhouette with exaggerated shoulder construction and wide lapels that create angular geometric lines. The jacket appears to have a double-breasted closure with visible buttons, though the construction suggests unconventional tailoring methods typical of Poell's work. The wool fabric has a matte finish and substantial weight. The sleeves show gathered or manipulated detailing at the shoulders, creating volume and texture that contrasts with the otherwise clean lines. This piece exemplifies the experimental menswear design of the late 2000s indie sleaze period.
jacketoversizedhip length
Connected To
67%
Influences·Japanese avant-garde tailoringFunction·avant-garde
SHARED30 years · cross-culture · cross-category
These two pieces speak the same deconstructionist language across three decades, both dismantling conventional tailoring to expose the bones of construction. The British trousers strip away pretense with their utilitarian coating and that dangling apron-like flap—a piece of the garment's anatomy made suddenly visible and strange—while the Austrian jacket performs a similar autopsy on suiting, turning itself inside-out to reveal darts, seams, and structural elements as decorative features.
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