
1970s · 1970s · French
Designer
Yves Saint Laurent
Production
ready-to-wear
Material
wool tweed
Culture
French
Movement
Le Smoking · Hippie / Counterculture
Influences
menswear tailoring · English country wear
A sleeveless wool waistcoat featuring a mottled olive green tweed body with dark brown leather or suede trim along the front edges and armholes. The garment displays a clean, minimalist silhouette with no visible closures on the front, suggesting either an open-front design or concealed fastenings. The construction shows precise tailoring with structured shoulders and a fitted torso that would sit close to the body. The contrast trim creates sharp definition along the garment's edges, emphasizing the geometric lines typical of 1970s menswear-inspired womenswear. The substantial weight of the wool tweed and the vest's proportions reflect Yves Saint Laurent's approach to borrowing masculine tailoring codes for women's fashion during this period.
These two pieces trace the long arc of menswear's infiltration into women's wardrobes, but they tell opposite stories about how that borrowing works. The 1970s waistcoat lifts the country gentleman's vest wholesale — all that tweedy texture and contrast piping — then strips away the blazer to make the masculine gesture more pointed and androgynous.
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The mustard jumpsuit's sharp lapels and tailored waist seaming speak the same menswear language as the tweed waistcoat's crisp V-neck and structured shoulders — both garments lifting masculine tailoring codes and making them newly feminine. Where the vest stays faithful to traditional menswear with its earth-toned tweed and contrast piping, the jumpsuit takes that borrowed authority and reimagines it in sunny cotton with a wrap silhouette that's unmistakably womanly.