
1980s · 1980s · French
Designer
Claude Montana for Idéal Cuir
Production
ready-to-wear
Material
red leather
Culture
French
Movement
Power Dressing
Influences
1940s military leather jackets · menswear tailoring
A double-breasted red leather jacket featuring an oversized shearling collar in matching burgundy red. The jacket displays classic tailoring with peaked lapels, structured shoulders, and a fitted waist achieved through strategic seaming. Two rows of buttons create the double-breasted closure, while the leather appears to have a smooth, finished surface. The sheepskin collar is substantial and plush, creating dramatic volume around the neckline. The sleeves are fitted with clean lines, and the overall silhouette emphasizes the broad shoulders and defined waist characteristic of 1980s power dressing. The construction shows precise leather-working techniques with clean edge finishing and professional tailoring that transforms utilitarian leather into high fashion outerwear.
These two pieces reveal how 1980s power dressing split into distinct tribes: the grey pinstripe dress channels boardroom authority through its severe tailoring and masculine suiting codes, while the red leather jacket with its plush sheepskin collar opts for a more theatrical, European approach to commanding presence.
Follow this garment wherever the graph leads
These two pieces capture power dressing's twin strategies for women claiming authority in the 1980s workplace: the black trousers borrow masculine tailoring wholesale—that crisp, uncompromising cut could have walked straight out of a Savile Row shop—while the red leather jacket weaponizes femininity, turning a traditionally masculine silhouette into something unmistakably seductive with its rich color and plush sheepskin collar.
Lineage: “masculine tailoring codes”
Both pieces weaponize leather for the boardroom battlefield of the 1980s, but they take opposite tactical approaches. The red jacket with its plush sheepskin collar broadcasts power through luxury and warmth—think corporate seduction—while the black croc-embossed coat goes full armor, its severe length and reptilian texture designed to intimidate rather than invite.
These two jackets reveal how power dressing evolved from the 1970s into the 1980s, trading subtlety for swagger. The sage blazer with its cheetah print speaks in whispers—borrowing men's tailoring but softening it with that almost-camouflage pattern that lets a woman blend into boardroom hierarchy. Twenty years later, the red leather double-breasted jacket with its plush sheepskin collar abandons all pretense of fitting in, turning masculine codes into pure theater.