SMITHSONIAN
Black Wool Twill Formal Tailcoat
Victorian Late / Bustle · 1980s · American
Designer
Carl Davis
Production
handmade
Material
wool twill
Culture
American
Influences
19th century formal tailcoat tradition
A black formal tailcoat featuring the characteristic swallow-tail silhouette with long tails extending below the waist at back. The jacket displays peaked lapels with satin facings, a double-breasted front closure with multiple buttons, and structured shoulders typical of 1980s tailoring. The wool twill exterior provides weight and structure while the silk satin lining visible at the interior adds luxury finish. The cut follows traditional evening dress codes with fitted torso, defined waist suppression, and the dramatic tail extension that distinguishes tailcoats from standard dinner jackets. The construction demonstrates formal menswear tailoring techniques with precise seaming and professional finishing details throughout.
jacketfit and flarehip length
Connected To
Worn with·formal shirtWorn with·formal trousersWorn with·waistcoatWorn with·
Echoes Across Time
Victorian Late / Bustle → Victorian Late / Bustle · 100yr73%
SHARED
The cream shirt's crisp bib front and the tailcoat's silk-faced lapels are partners in Victorian formality's rigid choreography — one the pristine foundation, the other the polished finale of white-tie dressing. Notice how both garments elongate through their tails: the shirt's curved hem designed to stay tucked despite a gentleman's movements, the coat's swallow-tail silhouette creating that distinctive dip and sweep that made men look like elegant penguins.
Worn with·formal trousersWorn with·waistcoatWorn with·white bow tie
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